For information, I talked to Robert Hineline at the Skater’s Edge. Despite working with nationally ranked figure skaters and hockey players, Hineline is full of practical tips for parents of players at any age or level.

Start with the Sock

Don’t even go skate shopping without the right socks. “Thick socks can add a full size and create sliding within the skate,” says Hineline. Robert and his wife Cathy recommend a thin men’s dress sock for skating. Knowing that my kid will never be the dork in the locker room in the black nylon socks, I suggest skate socks by Underarmour, Easton or CCM — or even the Champion athletic socks at Target. Hineline agrees these are ideal as they also draw moisture away from the foot.

Hineline warns against the old myth of skating barefoot. “The reason skates smell is that rotting skin is left behind. This gets back on the feet and causes athlete’s foot,” he says.

Fit Tips

The easiest, and probably most pricey, thing to do is march into a hockey store, be fitted and have the skates molded there. But when working with hand-me-downs, skates at resale shops or skates bought online, you may need to check out the fit yourself. For starters:

• Bauer and Nike skates tend to be narrow.
• Easton skates are generally medium width.
• CCM skates run wide, but they also offer all widths.

Tip: Rather than taking the time to cram a kid’s feet into a bunch of skates, you can pull out the insole and let your player stand on it to check the width.

Hineline notes that getting fitted is important because, “What some people think is wide not wide at all. It’s a proportion issue.” This is why a professional fitting may pay off. You can pay $10 or so at a skate shop for a fitting and still search for skates online or at resale shops.

If you’re “buying big” for a younger player:

• If dad can slide the flat side of a finger in around the ankle, that’s the perfect amount of growing space. If you can turn your finger to the wide side, however, that’s too big. (Sorry moms, this test works best with man-size hands.)
• According to coach Rich Kennedy, buying skates a half-size larger than the current skates usually works best for 8 and under players.

Hineline notes that if the skate is too big, it will cause bone spurs, bunions and corns. (Believe me, I’ve seen this. He’s not saying it to sell more skates!) Also, if the skate fits, but a kid is complaining about the toe box, it can be stretched.

Evaluating Used

Parents may opt for used skates or hand-me-downs for the first few years of play, particularly if a player is experimenting with hockey or deciding among multiple sports. According to Hineline, after three or four years of skating, kids need the performance of skates really fitted to them. In the meantime, his top tips for checking out used skates include:

• Stitching: The stitching around the skate should be consistent; gaps indicate tears.
• Rivets: Pull out the insole and check the condition of the rivets. They are likely to be rusted, but the tangs should be there and be gripping the skate.
• Blade life: Sharpening affects the life of the blade, removing a little bit each time. If the blade is only 3/8” tall, it’s life is too short and you will need new blades.
• Chipped blades: In a recent two- to five-year span, the metal mix from some manufacturers had too much nickel, leading to chipping on the blade edges. Avoid these.
• Solid blades: A solid blade without a gap is stronger, particularly for the shorter blades Mites use.
• Screws: Look at the screws holding the blade to the skate. If the skates click when you walk, the screws need tightened.
• Remold: Used skates are molded to someone else’s feet, whether by intent or wear. Since everyone’s ankle bones are in a slightly different position, Hineline recommends that you remold used skates.

Taking Care

The first time you wear a new pair of skates, guess what? They’re used, too. To take care of any pair of skates, keep in mind:

• Get sharp: For new skates, the first sharpening is the most important so make sure it’s done professionally. Used skates are almost sure to need a sharpening before wear.
• Rosie rivets: Take out the insole and dab the rivets with metal paint to prevent rust and slow wear. (Hineline admits that clear nail polish will work if you don’t have time for a special run to Lowe’s or Home Depot for metal paint.)
• Guards: If the blades do not say “stainless steel,” they can rust. In this case, do not use hard plastic guards. If you’re putting skates in storage for a month or so, leave the guards off regardless of the metal.
• Insoles: After every use, and particularly for storage, pull out those insoles to dry.

As a parting note, Robert and Cathy Hineline — who have no agenda as they don’t actually sell hockey skates — note that you should check over skates bought online as carefully as skates purchased in a store or purchased used. Be sure they’re in top condition before you wear them. Now get started breaking those skates in!

Editor’s Note: Thank you to Kelly Kordes Anton for this story.

Only the NIKE BAUER SUPREME ONE50 JUNIOR STICK is affected by this notice.

Bauer is also conducting an extensive review of our other stick products to verify compliance with the applicable regulations and will advise the results as soon as available in the coming days.

You should immediately stop any further sales of the NIKE BAUER SUPREME ONE50 JUNIOR hockey sticks and return any remaining inventory to Bauer under our normal customer return policy for a full credit. In the coming days we will communicate the full recall program and process to our retailers and consumers.

What you’ll need:

• 200″ of ¾ PVC pipe (often sold in 10’ lengths so you can just buy two )
• Pipe fittings/connectors (quantities shown in diagram)
• Hacksaw
• A large bag of 8″ cable ties
• Netting
• Optional: sand and epoxy
• A free Saturday morning

Grab your hacksaw and saw all your PVC piping to the appropriate length. As the old carpentry saying goes, “measure twice, cut once.” I’ve found the easiest way to assemble the pieces is by creating to U shapes. The diagram is color coded to help you visualize what I mean. Once the two U shapes are connected, insert the crossbar. Note: you might find the crossbar needs to be cut down just a little. My crossbar is probably closer to 30.5″.

Finally attach the mesh net using your zip ties. As far as netting goes, you have a lot of options. The goal in the picture uses cheap fishing netting purchased from eBay. I would only recommend this if you plan to play with a ball. A puck would be to heavy for this wimpy net.

If you want to add a little weight to your goal, fill it with sand and seal the tubes to the connectors using epoxy.

Update: For a larger goal that is 54″ x 44″ x 24″ use 1½” PVC and refer to the conversion chart below.

Editor’s Note: Thanks to SchoolyardPuck.com for this story.

Question: Any great ideas on bad blisters from new skates?  We’re using liquid bandage and tape, and wondered if there was another great product.

Answer: Funny you should ask that as I have a package of moleskin on my desk right now, ready to go out to the hockey bag. You can buy it in sheets (which my son cuts up and puts in a baggy) or precut. It’s really more preventive, than a cure, however.

For blisters, the players tend to use those corn pads with a hole in the center. A parent on my older son’s team, who is a pediatrician, does recommend the liquid bandage. (But as you probably know, it can burn!) Also, be sure the skates are tied tight so his or her feet aren’t moving around a lot to start with.

Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Kelly Kordes Anton for answering this question.

While a hockey stick might seem like a simple piece of equipment, there are many considerations when shopping for the right stick for your hockey player. Choosing an inappropriate size and type of stick might actually be detrimental to their game. Here are a few tips to consider.

Overview: Hockey sticks are available for right-handed or left-handed players in a wide variety of sizes, lengths, stick flex and curvatures. The length of the stick is cut down to match the height of the player. Curved stick blades and flexible shafts are for more advanced players. Beginning players should use a stick that fits their hands and has very little curvature to enable them to master both their forehand and backhand shots and passes. Cheaper sticks are just as functional as more expensive sticks and younger players aren’t strong enough to take advantage of more flexible shafts. Additionally, players need a different stick for off-ice practice since off-ice activity is very hard on equipment.

Stick Sizing: When sizing the stick to the player, don’t cut it too long and wait for them to grow into it. A proper length is essential for optimal stickhandling. To measure the stick correctly, place it on the ground in front of a barefooted player. Put the stick on its toe and measure to the player’s nose. Mark the stick at nose level and cut off any excess.

Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Sports Esteem for this article.

Mobility – If mobility is your major factor in buying ice pants then you will have to give some on the protection side. The more padding and features that are added to the pant the less mobile it can become. Generally the least expensive pants will offer the most interior room and the greatest mobility. Top level pant designs are allowing for more mobility then in previous years, however, they will still carry more bulk than the least expensive pants.

Padding – The pads which you want to focus on when looking at ice pants are the thighs, tailbone, kidneys and spine. The thigh pads should be preformed so they fit around the thigh and not stick out which can restrict your movement. The tailbone should have a preformed PE insert to protect you from nasty falls. The kidney pads should be preformed also so they wrap around your waist to keep the pant close. The spinal protection will protect you from crosschecks and awkward collisions with the boards.

Features – Additional features that you will want to look for are; a padded belt, a double belt system, zippers on the inner thigh, and segmented thigh pads. The belt is an important factor in the fit and comfort of the pant. Some ice pants come with a double belt system which holds the pant in place better. You will also want to look at getting a pant with a padded belt. The area where the belt wraps does not have much padding so adding some padding around that same area will give you some added protection. The zippers allow you to put your skates on first then your pants. Segmented thigh pads allow for a wider range of motion and less restriction.

Liner – The most important factor with the liner in an ice pant is the type of material. There is no protection factor in the liner so you want one that offers comfort. Higher end ice pants will offer a more durable better feeling material. Some manufactures also use a silicon grip print to lock the pant in place and help stop it from twisting. Antimicrobial liners are becoming more widely used. These liners are treated to stop the growth of bacteria which cause that awful smell and cause skin irritations.

Hockey equipment can be a big financial investment. Keeping this investment in the best possible condition can be difficult, especially considering they are being utilized by children.  Here are some great tips to keep your child’s hockey gear in top working order and extend the time that it is able to be used.

Young players often outgrow their equipment long before it wears out. However, proper care of the equipment helps make sure that it continues to provide safety in case of an accident and doesn’t interfere with making plays. The most common complaint with hockey equipment is that it can smell bad after usage. Just like clothes left in the washing machine, wet hockey equipment starts to mildew and smell. The easiest fix for this is simply to air the equipment out after every game and let it dry properly. When putting on each piece of equipment, players and parents should inspect it to make sure that:

• The equipment still fits
• There are no loose screws on the helmet
• There are no cracks
• There is no rust on rivets
• All clasps are working
• Velcro is still holding well
• All pads are intact and laced as needed.

Some equipment, like helmets and hockey pants can be adjusted to compensate for growth. Other pieces must be replaced. A basic repair kit kept in the hockey bag can help solve problems when they are most likely to occur — two minutes before game time. Handy items to have are:

• Extra Laces
• Helmet Screws
• Screwdriver
• Scissors
• Tape
• Towel
• Practice Puck

Skate Sharpening
In order for the skates to grip (cut into) the ice properly especially while turning, they should be properly sharpened. Skate blades have edges that cut into the ice and help a skater stay upright while turning. If the edges are nicked, a skater has difficulty making turns and going full speed.

Skate Blade
The amount of blade sharpness and hollow are often a matter of skater preference. Sharper blades have a deeper groove in the blade that helps with pushing off, stopping, changing direction, pivoting and turning. However, if a blade is too sharp, a player can have problems gliding and stopping as the overly sharp blade tries to grab the ice. Sharper blades are more dangerous and may also be damaged more easily.

Examining Skates
To see if a skate needs sharpening, hold it sideways up to the light so that only one edge is between the light source and your eye. Look for any nicks along the blade.  Flip the skate and over and examine the other edge in the same way. Then, look  lengthwise down the blade to make sure the edges are level. If you have trouble, place a dime on the edges of the blade and make sure it lies flat. If there are no nicks and the edges are level, then the blade does not need sharpening.

Key Points for Parents

• Don’t let you child skate with the wrong sized equipment; make sure that it continues to fit properly.
• Replace any problem equipment immediately.
• Make sure skates are always sharp.
• Use skate guards to protect the blade and guard against injuries;

Key Points for Players

• Always wipe down your skates after use and air out your hockey gear.

The biggest issue we encounter with new players or parents is the task of purchasing the right equipment. There are many different pieces and we now that it can feel overwhelming. For this reason we have designed this checklist to make it easy, fun and informative. There are many misconceptions about what is needed and not needed. This checklist will help you ensure that you or your child is adequately protected for the greatest game on earth. The two most important pieces of equipment is your helmet and skates. We always suggest that if you are going to spend an extra few dollars spend it in these areas.

Helmets

If you play in an organized league you will be required to have a HECC and CSA approved helmet. These certification standards mean that the helmet has been tested and meets the minimum standards. We only carry approved helmets because we believe that no matter what age you are, your head is the most important part of your body. All players under the age of 18 are required to wear a cage or full shield. We have a hard time understanding why anyone would stop using a cage or full shield once they are no longer required too. We suggest using a half shield at the least, to protect your eyes, at any age. 

Skates

Skates are the second most important piece of equipment. The biggest mistake we see is parents trying to buy a skate that is two sizes to big so their child can grow into them. Unfortunately this will hinder their skating ability and put them at a disadvantage.

Shin Pads

Shin pads are designed to protect the knee and shin from collisions, sticks and pucks. You can wear shin pads two different ways; a slightly longer shin pad that cover the outside of the top of the skate or slightly shorter that slide in behind the tongue. There is no right or wrong way; it is all at the preference of the player.

Elbow Pads

Elbow pads protect you in two ways. The fist is to protect your elbow from hard falls and impacts with the boards and other players. The second is to protect your forearms from sticks and pucks.

Shoulder Pads

Many people do not like shoulder pads as they used to be bulky and restrict movement. That is changing with some innovative designs. Shoulder pads are required for ice hockey except for adult non checking leagues. They are not required for roller hockey. Shoulder pads protect more than just your shoulders. Traditional shoulder pads will offer full body protection from your shoulders, to chest to the top of your arms. Newer styles are more like a shirt that fits snug and protects the chest and stomach only. These are designed for roller hockey.

Gloves

Gloves protect your hands, fingers and wrists. Some gloves will fit tighter to the hand and others will fit fairly loose. Again, this is a personal choice. 

Ice Hockey Pants

Ice hockey pants protect your thighs, hips and tailbone. More expensive pants will protect your lower back and kidneys also. Pants should fit comfortable around the waist and come down to the top of your shin pads.

Ice Hockey Socks

Socks are part of the uniform and cover the players shin guards. They are held in place with a garter belt or a jock short that have Velcro tabs for the socks to hook to.

Sticks, Shafts and Blades

Sticks range from an inexpensive wood stick to get started, to technological pieces of wonder. The options are more than plentiful. You can get a wood stick, composite stick or a composite shaft with a blade.

Jocks

There are 2 different styles of jocks. The first is the old school jock strap with cup. The second is a loose or compression short with a cup built in with Velcro tabs on the thighs to hold up ice socks if needed.

Mouth Pieces

Mouth pieces are becoming required in more leagues for players under 18. There are many different designs. Some styles are designed to protect from players from concussions or for players who wear braces to being gel moldable for the best in comfort.

Editor’s Note: Special thanks to HockeyX.com for this informative article.

Taping a stick can help:

• Control the puck while stick handling
• Keep hands from slipping off the end of the stick
• Provide a better grip when shooting, stick handling, stick checking or picking the stick up off the ice.

The blade is taped to help cushion the puck and keep it on the blade while carrying the puck down the ice. Some players prefer white tape on the blade to help them see the puck better. Other players prefer black tape to try to hide the puck from their opponents. Players should stay with either white or black tape for their blade.

The handle is taped to provide a better grip and a knob is created that keeps the hand from slipping off the end of the shaft. It also makes it easier to pick up the stick when dropped on the ice. The use of color here is strictly a personal preference. Some players like to tape down the shaft where they place their lower hand. Tape on the middle of the shaft can interfere with sliding the down hand up and down and should be used only if gripping is a problem.

Key Points:

• Pick colors that you like or mix them to make it more personal. If your stick is in a big pile of sticks, your taping choice can help you quickly identify your stick.
• Take care of your stick and it will take care of you.

Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Sports Esteem for the above article.

Material

Blades come in either wood, carbon fiber or a combination of both. Wood blades will offer the most feel and responsiveness however it does not perform like carbon and is heavier. A carbon blade will offer the highest performance and lightest weight but will suffer in feel. However, advancements in the core and carbon thicknesses are closing the gap. A blade that is a combination of both tries to marry the best aspects of each.

What the Pros Use

Majority of pros use one of two patterns. The most widely used is a slight to medium heel curve that is open and has a round toe. This offers a large flat surface which creates a big sweet spot for off center shots, big slap shots, deflections and one-timers since you have a better chance at getting more “wood on it”. The open toe allows them to get the puck up quick from the slot to pick the top corners and aids in chipping the puck up quickly in scrambles in front of the net. The second pattern is a medium mid cure that is open with a round toe. This helps to sling the puck for added velocity on wrist shots and snap shots. The mid curve is better for stickhandling and dangling around defensemen.

Curve Type

The curve is the first blade aspect you will want to decide on. Blades curve in three spots; Heel, Middle and Toe.

Heel Curve – Heel curves are most popular with players who take mostly slap shots, one-timers and like to sit in front of the net and deflect pucks. Since the blade curves at the heel it creates a large flat surface which creates a big sweet spot for off center shots. Defensemen will reap the benefits when they are being pressured at the point and need to get the puck on net. It will also help in one-timers since you have a better chance at getting more “wood on it”. A heel curve is not the optimum curve for stickhandling.

Toe Curve – If your goal is to pull off the sickest moves possible, the toe curve is for you. With the blade curving at the toe you are able to cup the puck more for exception control. The toe curve is also great for quick shots as it pulls the puck to the center of the blade. The toe curve offers exception control to pull off sick moves. This is the toughest blade to use. Your backhand will suffer and it is not great for slap shots and one-timers.

Mid Curve – This curve starts in the middle of the blade and makes a nice smooth pattern. A mid curve is the all around do everything pattern. It is great for puck control, backhands, shooting and passing. Since it does everything well it does not do any task great. For instance the heel curve will be better for slap shots and one-timers and the toe curve offers exception control to pull off sick moves. The mid curve is the most popular of all curves and it is the best starting point for beginners.

Curve Depth

The depth of the curve is the next aspect to consider. There are generally three different depths; Slight, Moderate and Deep.

Slight – A slight curve depth gives you an advantage with slap shots, one-timers, deflections and backhand shots due to its large flat surface. The disadvantages of a slight curve are that it is hard to raise the puck and harder to control the puck as it really does not cup the puck at all.

Deep – If you’re desire is to pull off ankle breaking moves then you may want to try a deep curve since it cups the puck for increased control. The deep curve will also help you hit the top shelf from close quarters. Since the curve is deep it makes it much harder for backhand shots, slap shots, one-timers and deflections. The deep curve is not a good beginner’s pattern.

Moderate – The moderate curve depth is the most popular. It will help with puck control, raising the puck on slap shots, backhand shots, one-timers and deflections. It may affect backhands some but not the extent of a deep curve.

Loft

Loft is the angle of the blade from bottom to top. There are generally three different angles; Closed, Slightly Open, and Open.

Closed – A closed face will give you more control of your shot and it will be easier to keep it low on longer shots. A closed face will also aid in stickhandling and backhand shots.

Slightly Open – This face angle aids in getting the puck in the air. It is the most widely used face angle of the three. It will help with slap shots, deflections and saucer passes.

Open – If you need some help getting some air under the puck, you may want to try a blade that has an open face. An open face sill also help chip the puck up quickly in scrambles in front of the net.

Lie

The lie is the angle which the blade comes off the ice and up the stick. When your lie is incorrect your shooting will suffer. In order to maximize power you need the complete blade on the ice so you can achieve maximum energy transfer. You want to find the lie that suits your playing style. Lie angles are broken into three categories; High, Mid, and Low.

High Lie – A higher lie allows you to maneuver and keep the puck in tight and close to your body. This lie will put you in perfect position for to use your leverage for quick hard shots. Check your stick; if there is more wear on the toe then you need to go to a higher lie to get the heel down.

Mid Lie – Allows you to still keep the puck close yet still maintain control of passes and shots at a longer reach. A medium lie is versatile for all shots and will also allow you a full range control for stickhandling and passing.

Low Lie – A Lower lie gives you maximum control with longer sticks and lengthens your reach. Will open up more room for large passing lanes and is the optimum angle for slap shots. Check you stick; if there is more wear on the heel then you will need a lower lie to get the toe down.

Toe Shape

The last factor to consider is what type of toe you want on your blade. The toe shape is the least important of all the aspects. The higher level you play than the more it will matter to your game. There are two basic toe shapes; Round and Square.

Round – A round toe will aid in pulling off some more advanced moves and allow for greater puck control.

Square – A square toe has a bigger surface area so it make it easier in receiving passes, taking one-timers and collecting the puck off the boards.

If you have any other questions about blades please contact HockeyX.com by phone (877-837-4427) or email (service@hockeyx.com). We love to sit around and talk hockey with our customers!

Editor’s Note: Special thanks to HockeyX.com for the above article.